Indian Tea Houses

Chai or Tea (commonly made with black tea, milk and spices), is a part of Indian culture, Bengali culture rather,  and diet, as much as rice is. Along with chai or chaa as Bengali's call it, we  have to have some snacks- whether it is chaat, singhara (commonly known as samosa), sweets (rasgola), marie biscuits or and biscuits (known as cookies in America). The biscuit might be a british thing, to dunk it in the tea and eat... mmm.

The Italians have their biscottis (delicious) with coffee, the French have their cafe au lait, the people in Westeros (fictional place in A Song of Ice and Fire) have their meads, ales, and Dornish wines...and the Brits and Indians have biscuits. Well maybe the Brits have tea and crumpets (hehehe!). We all have our drink and a side snack to comfort us at the end of the day. I love the tea and biscuits. I love dipping my biscuit in my tea! Personally I do not like it when the biscuit gets so soggy and breaks off and descend to the bottom of the cup, but some people like it. I do however enjoy the soggy biscuit with the subtle flavor of the tea. The chaa can be black, with or without sugar, with or without milk. It's up to you. If you're drinking it black, you can add some lemon... One thing you must have with tea is "Adda" in bengali that means "chat" or "gossip". Just a light, non-serious form of conversation.

In the west we do a type of "adda" over beer, or drinks. However in India or Bengal, chaa serves as the drink of choice for "adda". Its a social bonding experience, usually done at dusk, in the garden, some cozy spot, or the side of the road by the chaa-waalla (tea trader), or the maidan (field for sports). Did we get this culture from the Brits? or is it Bengali?

The point of the matter is, chaa is a ritual in Kolkata. after lunch, in the evenings before breakfast... In a way India has it's own tea-rituals. India has it's own Tea houses, although not as fancy as the Japanese Tea Houses. India's tea houses are rustic, and can be found in the cart on the road-side. It's truly an experience, and if not experienced an entertaining, and awesome sight to see.

India has been getting the reputation more and more of being the worst country or most dangerous country for women, it always has been. Recently more women are speaking up, and more people are standing up for women. So we are hearing more and more of the horrors. It's not recent, however it seems the violence against women is being aggravated further as more people stand up FOR women. There is many an argument against women and not to mention the sexually repressed nature of the culture, and conservative-ness, and what ever else. I recently came across this article on why and how a woman should travel India. Which is so well written. One line in particular struck me "One reason: No country will fascinate and frustrate you more." It's the small things, and not just in India, but every country. So look for the little tea stalls, and enjoy some chaa and biscuit. Forget starbucks, forget chai tea lattes and have the real thing... I sure miss it!

A chaa stand

The neighborhood chaa waala

There also maybe a chaa lady - Pic by Chirasree Charaborty

the chaa tastes best out of little earthen cups!

Ohio to Delhi and Madras Coffee to Mocha Latte

Recently my father traveled all over (again) for work, luckily I was left out of the hectic schedule. Delhi, Chennai, Calcutta, Thailand, Malaysia, Thailand, China (and various cities within china), back to Thailand... eventually India. I had to be here at the mothership and send shipments out to reach to those destinations which coincided with their trip for various trials. I digress, but the minute he lands, he finds the lounge for frequent travelers, finds his tea, and starts working. Yeah that's his life. HE sends the entire family this email- My grandad (whom he calls Baba- father), my mom, my uncle Danny, my sister, and who knows who else!

This is his little story... its an ungodly hour at Delhi international airport, he is waiting for his connecting flight to Chennai, and ofcourse it's morning here in USA.

Baba: I just called you, but NO ANSWER !! That means you are in Sangeeta’s home or ghure berachhen ! Roddure soreer kharap hobe.  (Means you are in Sangeeta's house or out wandering somewhere! You will get ill wandering around in the hot sun.)

I am in Delhi airport,

         First had a cup of coffee ! There are 4 coffee shops, but none had MADRAS COFFEE. I asked they said even though they are using coffee beans from Madras, but they must use “Foren names” like Latte, capachino and charge high for attracting clients !
       So, I said “Desi khotom, and Foren ka jamana” –  no place for Gandhiji ! (which means the Indian stuff is over/ended/gone, now it's time for foreign culture/"things" to invade and make money.)

This next part is other stories he has to tell about from the flight...

Some stories from the United flight –

     Good news: flight landed at 8 pm. I was out after customs clearance by 8-20 PM. That is 20 minutes from the Flight to out side after Immigration and customs. That is an “WOW” achievement of efficiency, my walking as well as the airport authorities.

      My row companion, kept his Bag under the center seat (that was empty), did not even make attempt to put above in the storage area. Then I saw he has only one arm !! I said “Sorry” to him for not knowing it before. As it was right arm that is lost, and he was sitting to my right.

I learned – he is “IT specialist for auditing Financial irregularities”. An intelligent young man from Simla, but works from Delhi for a large US based IT company with 300 global offices.

     In front  Row, I had 3 elderly ladies – all wheel chaired. One lady had her Row-companion – a High school grad US girl student, quite tall. Going to Mussourie for college study. Getting very popular amongst US people. This girl impressed every one from start. She was (so naturally & spontaneously) helping two elderly ladies seating in her row, even though these ladies had other Indian people seating in same row. The air-hostess called her the “Angel”.

     There was an old Sardarji couple just behind me – Before departure I spoke to Indira and Pillu in Bangla. Suddenly, this sardarji started talking to me in Bangla. He stayed in Kolkata for 30 years. Now he has green card, and stays with his son in Kansas city for about 5 months in a year.

    Now, I finished my second coffee cup along with two Samosa ( elephant size). This is also Madras Beans but with a “Foren” name.

So there is room for you to start “Swadeshi of gandhiji” movement or you can continue easily with your “Bilati culture”.

I will take morning flight to Chennai, then I come to Kolkata in the evening of 26^th.

Pronam to you and ma

Ashish

(note: I did a lot of work, and now trying to kill my time).

Another email regarding the coffee shop:

Babi,

I am still at Delhi airport. It is 1-40 am, I am having fun in killing my time with you in a productive way.

Now, you know – I can do things for you from any where  and at any time !!! Example,  in India from a coffee shop, around at mid night !! Correct ?

It is full of life here , with fresh dosa, rice, chart, Tea, coffee being made and served …

Body is getting tired, as sitting since yesterday.

Well used to it.

Love.. Babi

My sister replies:

Aha! I bet that's the same coffee shop Chris and I ate at in New Delhi when we first arrived!! 



His next email after multiple replies from Danny, my sis and I:

Now comes the foren English I learned in America, my new Home, and I am an Amrican citizen !!

Ø  I see nothin !
Ø  I don’t see “nothin”
Ø  I cannot do “Nothin’!”
Ø  Are you doin somethin ?

The class is closed now for the day. You will learn more from me as we do more classes.

Love  to you all.

Chai and Biscuits

The cream that holds the two biscuits together was what we craved for as a children. We even loved just eating the frosting off a cake. Grown ups would be happy with their chaa and Britannia-Marie Gold biscuits, the cake part of the cake without frosting, and read a fat book on philosophy in the corner of a room, or under the tree.

We needed the sugar, the running around, and occasionally swallowing up an Enid Blyton or other fictional book whole, along with cookies. We didn't understand how as we grow tastes change and we refine our tastes in food and books alike. Where is that marie-gold biscuit now, I wish to dip it in my tea.

That day will never come, when I say no to Oreos or Bourbon biscuit (Britannia). I still like biscuits with cream fillings, but I have learned the pleasures of Britannia-Marie with my chaa or earl grey. I do enjoy sipping my wine slowly now, rather than gulping it down like a boisterous college kid. It took a while to get here, but sometimes I still do and did enjoy the childish craves for sweets, and the college binge drinking. Mellowing out as an adult, does give space for the subtle pleasure of life, sometimes even childish, like laying on the grass reading a book on a warm sunny day and observing a lady bug for hours.

Now I finally get it! Why the grown ups love having chai and marie biscuit on the balcony on the morning, reading the newspaper, or just chatting over chaa. Its a simple pleasure and lovely way to start the morning. I would do that, and do the crossword puzzle at the back now, if I was there. Some kids would come and wonder 'why are the grown us eating marie-biscuit, when they could buy the cream filled wafer biscuit? Lets go storm the cookie cupboard!' I'll go on sipping my chaa, dipping my biscuit, hoping it doesn't fall in, and carry on with the crossword. Now I get it.

From running around playing "police-and-robber", to college parties, to meditation and yoga... life has its medley, some stay on in one stage others move and grow. It's nice to revisit stages every now and then, but growing into the butterfly is most exciting!

Breathe